DISCOVER CAPE TOWN AND ITS SPECTACULAR ART AND DESIGN SCENE
The Mother City, as Cape Town is known in South Africa, has always been known for its spectacular scenery, but over the last few years, the city has emerged as a powerful art and design hub, drawing the attention of creatives from around the world. My curiosity was piqued and when I saw images from the new Zeitz MOCAA museum, I was convinced. It was time to visit. The city did not disappoint.
THE SILO DISTRICT - THE NEW AND THE SPECTACULAR
The Silo District is the latest addition to Cape Town’s vibrant art scene. The success of the V&A Waterfront development breathed new life to the previously abandoned old grain silos. They have resurfaced as new creative work spaces, design stores, boutique hotels, and, as of late 2017, the spectacular contemporary art powerhouse that is the Zeitz MOCAA.
The Zeitz Museum of Contemporary African Art (or Zeitz MOCAA) was years in the making. The former Grain Silo Complex was redesigned to give Cape Town a new high-quality art exhibition space that would feel true to Africa and that would preserve the building’s own historic roots. The redesign, carried out by the Thomas Heatherwick studio, is nothing short of spectacular.
The architects took the original forty-two 33-meter high concrete tubes with little to no open space in-between and, by cutting through the concrete, created a 6,000 sq. m museum anchored by a light, lofty, awe-inspiring atrium that resembles a vaulted cathedral not unlike Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia. Whether or not you are an architecture buff, you will feel compelled to linger and draw your sights up to the ceiling, or even venture down to the basement and navigate through the ominous maze of old pump controls to get the unobstructed view of the masterpiece.
The museum is starting to build an impressive collection of art from contemporary creators from the entire African continent. I was particularly intrigued by the puzzling photos of Cyrus Kanebi’s eyewear, amused by the organic shape of the work by Atang Ashkari and moved by the poignant multi-sensory work of Owanto. This is a must for any contemporary art and architecture lover.
The Silo Hotel, Zeitz’s immediate neighbor, The Silo Hotel, was built to impress. Even if you decide not to stay in one of its stunning rooms, make sure to stop in for a drink at the 6th floor bar. Preferably around sunset. The views are to die for and design fans will be blown away by the spectacular grid windows. I want them in my house!
Southern Guild. If ever I were to move into a design store or a gallery, this could be the one. Balancing just the right amount of streamlined, sparse furnishings with beautifully crafted pieces by emerging artists, the store invites you to linger and admire. I loved the hanging chair “pods” and the whimsical light sculptures.
Radisson Red. The latest addition to the Radisson family is keenly focused on pulling in the design- and art-savvy crowd. The hotel features rotating exhibitions of emerging local artists and is furnished with street-art inspired artwork and even a whimsical light-changing blimp beverage cart in the lobby. Try to get a room with the view of Table Mountain. It epitomizes the “picture window” idea.
FROM THE COOL GALLERIES OF WOODSTOCK TO THE GRITTY STREET ART OF SALT RIVER
Where the Silo District shows off post-industrial glitz, Woodstock still shows its gritty but rapidly gentrifying roots. Though most of the mattress and office supply stores have been transformed into creative agency homes (Google planting its HQ in the area may have had something to do with it), you can still walk past abandoned alleyways where you may not want to be alone late at night. Yet, the signs of transformation are everywhere and Sir Lowry Road is full of great contemporary art galleries that could give their New York and London counterparts a run for their money. I liked the Goodman Gallery, Stevenson Gallery and my favorite was the light and airy Blank Projects. If you want a mix of artists, you can head over to the SMAC Gallery and you will not be disappointed.
If, like me, you also like street art, Woodstock can give you a taste, but the real show begins in the much grittier Salt River that is to Capetown what Wynwood Walls is to Miami. Here is where street art rules and, thanks to the annual International Public Art Festival (IPAF) gets updated every February. The art covers the spectrum, from polished walls from visiting artists to comics-like works by local artists who often capture neighborhood characters in their work. You can explore it on your own or rely on the kind and savvy guidance of Massimo from Anima Tours, one of the IPAF co-founders. I did and it was terrific.
FANCY SOME COLOR? BO KAAP IS YOUR THING THEN
You’ve probably seen the colorful houses of Bo Kaap in someone’s instagram already. They are popular with visitors to the city - and for a good reason. On a sunny day, the bold, saturated colors pop against the blue sky and dazzle the eye. Every color of the rainbow can be found here. And together, they just instantly lift your mood!
GET OUT OF TOWN…TO NORVAL FOUNDATION
Contemporary art does not stop at Cape Town’s city limits. I would strongly encourage you to make the half-hour drive to the Steenberg Estate. Not only is the drive dotted with spectacular countryside views, but the new Norval Foundation Art Museum there is a gem. The museum’s main building, designed by dhk as a modern pavilion for art, sits in a beautifully landscaped garden with dramatic views of the Table Mountain and surrounding vineyards as the backdrop. Walk through, enjoy the art inside, grab a bite in the restaurant and definitely spend some time strolling through the sculpture garden that showcases modern African art. Definitely worth a trip!
Cape Town’s art is impressive, as is the city itself. From the first morning when I opened hotel blinds to the sight of the Table Mountain and Lion's Head, I was hooked. I could write much more about the excellent foodie scene, captivating (if not easy to absorb) history, and absolutely spectacular landscape. Perhaps I will, in another post. For now, I leave you with an image of a city that should be on everybody’s bucket list.