BERLIN'S CONCRETE JUNGLE: ART IN BUNKERS AND TRAIN STATIONS
Berlin. It’s been a while since I visited. Back when I first saw it, remnants of the Cold War were still everywhere. It was late winter and my dominant memory was the rather unappealing Alexanderplatz, gray skies and cold everywhere. Coming back in late spring definitely helped. It gave me a whole new perspective on a city that’s changed and radiates raw art energy. It was fun to explore and provided more items to put on my list for the next visit. Because I will go back. There is a lot more to do and see.
Let’s explore the places that caught my eye. I believe art lovers from around the world will enjoy them too.
Neue National Galerie. OK, this gallery is just as important as an architectural gem as it is for the art that’s housed inside. An homage to modernist aesthetics, the gallery was designed by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe and I loved every angle of it, from the massive lobby to the sculpture garden. When I visited earlier this year, it was showing the works of another legend, Gerhard Richter. That show is now closed but you can still see the many modern art masterpieces and the ongoing Isa Genzken exhibition through November.
Hamburger Bahnhof. What is it about old train stations that makes them suited for a second life as art galleries? Once an iconic railway station, the building has been transformed into an unparalleled contemporary art museum that stands out for its commitment to displaying innovative, large-scale installations and thought-provoking conceptual art pieces. During my visit, the museum was showing the interesting works of Fred Sandback.
East Side Gallery. If you prefer to absorb art outside museum walls, head out to the literal wall - whatever is left of it. The stark reminder of Berlin’s divided past has morphed into an artful promenade of sorts, with works by different street artists. Some recall our shared history (many from our part of the world will spend a nostalgic moment or two in front of the Trabant that’s breaking through the wall while carrying the date of the fall of the Berlin Wall on its license plate) while others point us to issues that plague our world today. Take a walk and ponder the life we’re living these days. It will do you good.
If that is not enough, you may also want to duck into one of the many graffitied courtyards and inner blocks near the Hackescher Markt. I will admit, this was an advice from a local, otherwise it would never have occurred to me. But I am very grateful for getting such savvy advice. The raw art scene is intriguing and I saw a few captivating mini pop up photography “corners” that I loved.
Boros Collection. This is the one that got away, and will likely be the impetus for my next visit to Berlin. It’s fascinating. Housed within a unique setting - a former World War II bunker - the gallery owned by Christian and Karen Boros, is a living testament to the city's history. Visitors are taken on an emotional journey as they navigate through the cavernous spaces, connecting with both the art and the building's haunting past. The museum is currently showing the works from a broad range of artists, including Jean-Marie Appriou, Julian Charrière, Eliza Douglas, Thomas Eggerer, Louis Fratino, Cyprien Gaillard, Ximena Garrido-Lecca, Yngve Holen, Klára Hosnedlová, Anne Imhof, Alicja Kwade, Victor Man, Kris Martin, Nick Mauss, Jonathan Monk, Adrian Morris, Paulo Nazareth, Berenice Olmedo, Amalia Pica, Bunny Rogers, Michael Sailstorfer, Wilhelm Sasnal, Pieter Schoolwerth, Anna Uddenberg, Julius von Bismarck, Eric Wesley, and He Xiangyu. If you’re interested in going, make sure you book ahead - unlike the others, The Boros Collection requires advance booking for guided tours.
Berlinische Galerie. Another “miss” on my recent trip due to renovation-related closure, the Berlinische Galerie is dedicated to preserving and celebrating the artistic identity of the German capital. Showcasing an eclectic mix of contemporary artworks by Berlin-based artists, the gallery offers a unique opportunity to understand the city's evolving cultural landscape.
Tired, but want to feel like you are staying in a creative setting? Head over to the Gorki Apartments. Located in the Berlin-Mitte, the one word I would use to describe this place is - quirky, down to the hotel logo. But good quirky. Each apartment is different, all have been clearly designed with a sophisticated designer mindset and with a whimsical, roughed-up charm – an exposed brick wall here, a hand-carved table there. The staff was friendly, my room was huge (the bathroom might actually be larger than the bedroom!) and I loved my stay. You’re within strolling distance of cool shops, bars and restaurants and you’re well taken care of.
So, when are we going to Berlin next?