CONTEMPORARY ART IN PARIS IN AUGUST? MAIS OUI!
Paris in August. Usually pretty hot and free of Parisians who use the peak summer month to take their annual “congé” or “vacances” and escape the hordes of tourists that descend upon their city. But, if you are visiting and happen to love contemporary art, do not despair. Yes, many smaller contemporary galleries may be closed, but there is plenty of interesting art to see.
Let’s start in Le Marais. It has always been one of my favorite “arrondissements” in Paris. Meandering streets, lots of cute cafes, tiny boutiques offering wares that you are unlikely to find anywhere else and, for those who are after the iconic experiences, the beautiful Place des Vosges and the nearby garden of L’Hotel de Sully. Combine it with a stay at Hôtel National Des Arts Et Métiers, Le Pavillon de la Reine or Cour des Vosges and you can have a very pampered stay in the middle of it all.
It also happens to be the home for a number of museums that stay open. This summer, they offer a lot of great shows to see. A few that a contemporary art lover might enjoy include:
FONDATION AZZEDINE ALAIA. Tucked in a small street a few minutes’ walk from The Louvre, the foundation linked to the iconic fashion designer will not disappoint. Located in a former glassworks factory, the building itself is beautiful, with well preserved glass and wrought iron detailing, a well stocked book store where fashion lovers will find just about any photography book they may be looking for and a lovely courtyard cafe with sleek Bertoia-designed chairs. Inside, the foundation has a habit of showing outstanding fashion photography exhibitions paired with Alaia’s stunning designs. A couple of years ago, we could admire Peter Lindbergh’s work, and this summer it’s the works of Arthur Elgort. Stop by, you will not regret it.
MUSEE PICASSO. The Spanish artist who made France his home for a number of years is well known and you have probably been to his museums in Barcelona or Cap d’Antibes. This should be another stop in your Le Marais itinerary. Especially this summer, as the museum asked the British fashion designer Paul Smith to curate a show commemorating the 50th anniversary of Picasso’s passing. Smith has done a brilliant job, perfectly matching the design of the show to the different periods of the artist’s creations and styles. Each room is a delightful (and colorful, true to Smith’s own style) surprise. The show is thought through down to every cute little detail, be it a whimsical drawing on a window or staircase, or a beautiful view of Parisian rooftops that complement the show.
Technically part of Centre Pompidou right on the edge of Le Marais, this small (and free!) exhibition place designed by Renzo Piano beautifully and accurately reconstructs the studios of the Romanian sculptor Constantin Brâncuși whose work I have long admired. Bright and airy, the space allows you to revisit some of Brancusi’s iconic works in their original setting. If you happen to be in the area, it’s worth a stop. Even if you only stay for a few minutes, you will be transported.
If all these gems in Le Marais are not enough, and you’re ready to explore some more, you can head towards the Louvre and Jardin de Tuileries. Do not worry, I am not suggesting you join the throngs of people lining up in front of I.M. Pei’s pyramid to enter the most iconic of Parisian museums. That is only for those who like to torture themselves this time of the year. Keep walking right past and towards the Jeu De Paume museum. It’s a much more contemporary and pleasant experience.
JEU DE PAUME. This museum, located near Place de la Concorde, puts on interesting photography shows. This summer, they are showing two: Frank Horvat (of the Magnum fame initially, followed by an important career in fashion photography), and Dutch Johan van der Keuken’s work focused on different visual elements and how they play in photography. The Horvat show, especially, is interesting, picking up not only well known photographs from his fashion career but also showing his earlier documentary work from around the world and the Parisian nightlife. And, if all that art has got you tired, make like a Parisian and relax in one of the green metal chairs sprinkled throughout the Tuileries gardens. It is lovely.
Alors, bonne journée et bon voyage!