Many visitors to the Czech Republic never make it out of Prague. And that’s a shame. There are many other beautiful places to enjoy if you are willing to explore. One of the unexpected positives of the pandemic (I am working hard to find at least one!) is that with international travel at a standstill, travelers now have more time and incentive to roam around their homeland and discover what it has to offer. For me, one such trip was revisiting Cesky Krumlov.

Krumlov won the landscape lottery. Located on the Vltava river, it features everything a traveler could imagine: a magical horseshoe bend in the river, an imposing castle with a tower painted in fairy tale colors and a moat guarded by live brown bears, a picturesque water mill complete with a large wooden wheel… and miles of cobble stoned winding streets with memorable names such Parkan and Latran. For the outdoorsy types, it is also one of the best known canoe and kayak stops on the Vltava. Oh, and yes, it is a UNESCO heritage site, too.

But the city’s appeal doesn’t stop there. Follow me and let’s take a stroll. Since it’s the morning, finding a good place for breakfast would be lovely. And you can find it in Kolektiv cafe. Given my appreciation for good design, I liked it immediately. Clean lines, distinctly mid-century vibe, and awesome cappuccino. What more could you ask for? Just get here early. It is popular (yes, even in an off-season) and by lunchtime there is a line outside. If you’d rather take your coffee outside and ponder life while watching the river, stop by Kafemlejnek and enjoy their patio.

Once you’re fed and caffeinated, it’s time for some art. Luckily for you, there’s plenty of that here too. Head on to the Egon Schiele Art Center. Housed in the old Krumlov brewery that’s been transformed into a thoroughly modern and cool arthouse, the museum celebrates one of the city’s most famous residents, Egon Schiele. Schiele was born in Vienna but his mother came from Cesky Krumlov and after his father’s death, he lived in town between 1907 and 1917. Unfortunately, his bohemian lifestyle proved to be too much for the small town and Schiele had to leave. Sadly, he died of the Spanish flu a year later. He was quite prolific, and the museum has a collection of 250 paintings and 2 000 drawings to share with visitors.

If Schiele’s art is not your thing, don’t despair. The art center has a robust artist in residence program and regularly shows their work and puts on rotating contemporary art shows. When I visited this summer, there was a fantastic piece by Japanese sculptor Tets Ohnari, two other shows by painters Anna Anderlova and Judith Zillich and architecture photography show by another famed local, Josef Seidel.

Josef Seidel and his photo studio should be another stop on your trip. A working photo studio it also serves as an endearing time capsule showing the evolution of regional landscape and portrait photography and gives you a nice window into the life of the family that has run the photo business for over a century. The museum has a great self guided audio tour that you should not skip.

Ready to tackle the main attraction? Off to the castle we go!

When you enter Krumlov from one of the main parking lots, the castle walkway looms large above your head and the climb feels impossibly high. Once you start walking, getting up to the main gate and tower feels more like a leisurely stroll. Perhaps it’s because your eye is drawn to the picturesque houses lining the Latran street. And then suddenly, the tower is right in front of you. Colorful and perfectly round, it almost feels like a movie prop. But walk past it and you find yourself surrounded by medieval archways, gilded carriages and spectacular views of the city. Linger a little, and walk all the way through because there is more.

The beautifully sculpted gardens are a feast for the eyes and practically beg you to play a little game of hide and seek. Should you? Yes, you should! And when you’re done, keep going to take a peek at another Krumlov attraction - the open air rotating stage. In the summer, the scene becomes a destination as locals and tourists come to see various plays in the park. Why not? [A note: the stage is under renovation and will reopen in time for next summer season.]

After all the walking, it may be time for a little something to eat and drink A fun place to stop by is Apotheka. Cool conversion of an old pharmacy and now home to great charcuterie and cheese plates and a long list of creative cocktails. Stop by, it’s worth it.

- -