SEEKING MODERNISM IN MALLORCA
While most party-loving and island-hopping crowds will be familiar with Ibiza, it’s time they got to know its larger Balearic sister, Mallorca. Those seeking modernism and contemporary art will be surprised by Mallorca and its capital, Palma, and the terrific art and spectacular dining that can be found among the island’s rocky beaches and verdant mountains. Who knew?
SEE:
Start your visit to Mallorca at La Seu, the city’s imposing (its nave, at 44 meters tall, is taller than the central nave of the Notre Dame in Paris) yet surprisingly modern cathedral. The cathedral, built in the Catalan Gothic style dominates the city and, thanks to the recently added Parc de la Mar sits in a thoroughly contemporary setting. Go inside to explore what’s left of Anthony Gaudi’s abandoned attempts to renovate the cathedral and then take a stroll through Passeig del Born to admire more modernist buildings along the way. And yes, there’s great shopping there, too!
If you’re willing to move past the Palma city center, the Bellver Castle is another piece of Mallorca’s history that has retained its simple, Gothic looks that appeal to the modern art lover’s eye. Climb to the top to take in amazing views of the island – from the nearby marina to the to the hills inland.
There are many tourist destinations in and around the city but this is a modern, art-focused blog, so let me highlight the best contemporary art spots that you can find on the island. In Palma, make sure you visit the Es Baluard museum. I loved it, from the vast courtyard featuring massive sculpture by Santiago Calatrava to the galleries packed with works by Marina Abramović, Georges Braque, Amedeo Modigliani, Nan Goldin, and many, many more.
A great museum like Es Baluard would typically satisfy my art cravings for the duration of my vacation, but in Mallorca, there is more. Next stop: Fundació Pilar i Joan Miró. This was Miro's home and studio in his later years and now comprises several buildings that display tapestry, sketches, and various objects that Miro used for inspiration. Stop by if you can.
The next gallery on the list requires a little adventure – getting on the historic wooden train to Soller. The hour-long train ride itself is fun and makes a few scenic stops where you can admire the beautiful Serra de Tramuntana mountains and countryside.
Once you arrive at Soller, make sure to spend a few minutes at the train station. Yes, the train station doubles as a museum with great examples of Picasso’s pottery and works by Miro! But that’s not all that Soller offers. Make your way to the Art Nouveau building of Can Prunera in the town center. The building itself is worth a visit, and you can find a great sculpture garden and more works from Miró’s, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, Paul Klee, Fernand Léger, and others. I especially liked the streamlined sculptures of Gerard Matas.
Finally, though it is mostly reserved for artist-in-residence long term stays, architecture lovers should know about Jørn Utzon’s Can Lis, the minimalist home that the architect built for his own family and friends.
EAT:
I have always liked Spanish tapas, but I did not know that Mallorca is home to 10 Michelin-starred restaurants. Let’s just say, we ate very well in Palma, Michelin star or not. Here are a few to whet your appetite:
Marc Fosh Housed in a modern conversion of a historic building, Fosh serves up Mediterranean food based on local and seasonal Balearic ingredients. Feast for your eyes and for your stomach.
Fera Another modern restoration of an old palace that appeals to minimalist tastes and comes coupled with art as a bonus.
Bar Espana simple and unfussy and yet serving some great stuff in a casual setting.
STAY:
I enjoyed staying at the Posada Terra Santa in the historic part of Palma that combined just the right amount of crisp and clean design with the charming old beams, courtyard and structure of a historical palace. A little bonus – tiny rooftop pool that overlooks a nearby church steeple and the picturesque surroundings.
You could also stay in Convent de la Missio that is close by. The hotel has a luxury minimalist feel in a spectacular setting and is worth stopping by for at least a drink on the patio.
Boutique Hotel Calatrava. If you want proximity to the water AND La Seu with clean contemporary design, this is another option for you.
Just writing all this makes me want to plan another trip! I will definitely be back to Mallorca soon.