YAYOI KUSAMA HIDING IN PLAIN SIGHT AT THE SERRALVES MUSEUM IN PORTO

Porto. A city best known for its “shabby chic” tiled architecture, vertigo-inducing iconic bridges and countless brands of Port wine from the Douro valley is currently also playing host to a fabulous art show by Yayoi Kusama. The local Serralves museum has organized a show called “YAYOI KUSAMA: 1945 TO NOW” that is on display through the end of September.

It was only natural, then, that I took myself and my fortunately very willing friend to see the show during a recent visit to Porto. The start was not for the faint-of-heart. Long lines stretching round the block almost immediately made us question the wisdom of going on a Sunday (especially on a day that was free of charge for local residents), but fortunately, once the museum gates opened, the line moved quickly and within a few minutes we were inside, ready to see Ms. Kusama.

The show, featuring about 160 works, including paintings, drawings, sculptures and installations, covers Kusama’s avant-garde vision from the 1940s through present time, focusing on the different aspects of her interest in interconnection and reflections on natural cycles of regeneration. You will see videos from the artist’s life, her evolving style of painting and her playful installations - from the iconic yellow pumpkins to a profound childlike joy-inducing black and white dotted infinity room (a nice benefit - unlike during the Zwirner show in New York, the wait time here lasts minutes rather than hours! And yes, you will have a lot of fun. We sure did.)

This exhibition is organised by M+, Hong Kong in collaboration with the Serralves Foundation and the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, curated by Doryun Chong and Mika Yoshitake, supported by Isabella Tam.

For those who are craving even more contemporary art, Porto offers its Art District centered around the Rue de Miguel Bombarda that is lined with many smaller galleries - from Presenca gallery on one end to the more commercial Tilsitt gallery on the other end. Other great galleries are sprinkled throughout the city, such as the great Nuno Centeno or Lehmann + Silva. Just make sure you time your visit after the summer holiday when many galleries close.

Where to stay? Porto is a very walkable city (well, if you don’t mind the cobble stoned streets and its hilly landscape - this is definitely a sneaker town, leave your heels at home) so pick an accommodation that is centrally located. We stayed at the Pousada do Porto and loved its quiet room right off the major pedestrian zone.

Bem vindo ao Porto!

Expanding the Kusama Experience: Kistefos Museum

If you’re a fan of Kusama’s work, another breathtaking destination to consider is the Kistefos Museum in Norway. Home to the famous Twist building designed by Bjarke Ingels, Kistefos features a vast contemporary art sculpture park where Kusama’s vibrant works are displayed alongside other renowned artists like Anish Kapoor and Olafur Eliasson. Located in the Norwegian woods, Kistefos offers a unique blend of art and nature, creating an experience that's both immersive and tranquil—much like Kusama’s works themselves. For more details on the museum, check out my post on Kistefos Museum here.

MODERN AND CONTEMPORARY ART IN OLD TOWN DUBROVNIK? YES, YES, AND YES

Dubrovnik is well known for its beautiful old town that has been designated as UNESCO heritage site, so many visitors quite naturally do not think about the opportunities to work some contemporary art into their trip. And if you’re a history buff, that’s quite alright. But, if you do enjoy seeing something contemporary - especially in a juxtaposition to the city’s stunning historic backdrop, you’re in luck. There is a good spot for you here, too.

Its name is Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik (MoMAD). Walk out of the Ploće gate, continue along the sea and within minutes you arrive at the imposing mansion designed by Lavoslav Horvat and Harold Bilinić and built by a local ship owner, Božo Banac. But don’t let the historical facade that echoes the Gothic and Renaissance style that is synonymous with Dubrovnik, scare you off. Inside, the works are decidedly contemporary as the museum hosts plenty of exhibitions from both local and international artists. I was kicking myself for having missed Giacometti show that I am sure I would have loved. Not to worry, I still enjoyed myself visiting the show of works by the Istanbul and Frankfurt-based artist Ekrem Yalcindag entitled “Nature” — glimpses of nature transformed into large scale works of art. And, when you’re done with the exhibition, don’t forget to step out onto the terrace adorned with many cool sculptures and offering spectacular views of the old town. So stop by, enjoy yourselves.

WHAT TO SEE IF YOU'RE IN PHILADELPHIA FOR 24 HOURS AND LOVE ART

Philadelphia is well known for its important role in American history. But, what about if you love art and have a day to visit? Rest assured, there is plenty of great art to see. Let’s go!

PHILADELPHIA ART MUSEUM

The Philadelphia Museum of Art is well known for the great collection it houses. It definitely holds its own compared to its better known neighbors in New York City and Washington, DC. The 240,000 works inside cover 2,000 years of history, including pieces from the ancient world, medieval times, the Renaissance, the Impressionist movement, modern art all the way to the contemporary. From Cezanne and Van Gogh through Picasso, Cy Twombly, all the way to Sam Gilliam. One of my personal favorites are the works by Constantin Brancusi that I never forget to visit. The museum also has a wonderful collection of Asian art, including a little tea house and zen garden where you can just feel the stress sliding off your shoulders.

The architecture buffs will also appreciate the recent renovation led by Frank Gehry which added a new North entrance and a number of new galleries and public spaces.

Last, but not least, there is also a little treat for the Rocky film franchise lovers. Yes, these are the steps to run up and do your best Stallone impression. You can even take a selfie with the plaque that is embedded in the pavement at the top.

RODIN MUSEUM

Headed from the Philadelphia Art Museum back to Center City? Don’t forget to make a stop at another little gem, The Rodin Museum (good news: your art museum ticket will get you a free entrance here, too). Housed in a small pavilion surrounded by a beautiful garden and guarded by none other than The Thinker out front, the museum is home to many smaller versions of the artist’s famous works - from Balzac portraits, to his famed studies of human hands. More sculptures are sprinkled throughout the garden, including The Three Shades, and The Burghers of Calais. Stop by. All together, this is one of the largest collection of Rodin’s sculptures outside of Paris. In the spring and summer, this place is delightful.

BARNES FOUNDATION

If you like impressionism, post-impressionism and modern art, you must make this one of your stops. And, get ready to be overwhelmed. You will not see this many Renoirs side by side on a single wall anywhere else. The collection was built by Dr. Albert C. Barnes (1872-1951), who believed that art had the power to improve and change lives. Having enjoyed early career success, he started collecting art at age 40, and over three decades, amassed an impressive collection of works by the world's most important artists, including Renoir, Cézanne, Matisse, Modigliani (my personal favorite) and Picasso. Today, experts estimate the value of the collection at 20-30 billion dollars.

Originally housed in a special-purpose built mansion in Merion, Pennsylvania, the Barnes Foundation was moved to its current location in Center City Philadelphia in 2012. It was not without controversy. Detractors still point out that moving the collection from a neoclassical building in Merion to a postmodern raw stone and glass building designed by Billie Tsien undermined the vision Dr. Barnes laid out in his will. The curators defend themselves by saying that inside it is as if the dimensions of the old gallery were perfectly copied. It was also mandated: In order for the judge to approve the gallery move, the foundation promised to keep the dimensions of the original galleries and to replicate the quirky "ensembles" of paintings, furniture and metalwork the same way that Albert Barnes originally conceived and arranged them. Even the burlap on the walls looks the same. However, the architects found a way to incorporate natural light into almost every room. This accentuates the colors in images - a big improvement.

Be ready: When you walk in, you will be overwhelmed by the sheer amount of art. Where else in the world can you find five Renoir paintings sharing the same wall with several Picassos, Matisses, Modigliani and maybe two Degas paintings? All this next to African masks, Native American jewelry, Greek antiques... And that's just one wall in one room... and believe me, there are many rooms where you can admire a similar collection. You won't see anything like this anywhere in the world. Go see it. Even this thoroughly contemporary art lover approves.

FIRST FRIDAY

If you're in town during the first Friday of each month, don't miss a chance to explore Philly's incredible art scene, First Friday. This is when the galleries around the city throw their doors open and art lovers pour through many of the galleries in the Old City Arts District. The 40-plus galleries that are scattered between Front and Third, and Market and Vine Streets, show everything from contemporary works in various mediums to ceramic arts. It's a refreshing way to unwind after work or start the weekend out with something different when you're in town.

NEED TO PUT YOUR FEET UP? A COUPLE OF PLACES TO STAY

And, since you may need to put your feet up and relax somewhere for the night after all that art, here are a couple of my tips for places.

KIMPTON PALOMAR. Plopped right in Center City near Rittenhouse Square, the hotel is built in the former headquarters of the American Institute of Architects. And, to go with he theme, it has incorporated art and architecture into the experience, with contemporary art by Philadelphia artists throughout the property. The rest of the accommodations are pretty nice too, with Frette linens, L’Occitane amenities, marble vanities and recycled glass tiles in the bathrooms.

WM MULHERIN’S SONS. And now for a slightly different experience. If you like industrial chic, this small boutique hotel in Fishtown may be the right destination for you. There are only a few rooms but they feature exposed brick, arched windows and clawfoot tubs. And, if that’s not enough on its own, there are some bonus points: lots of great eateries and music venues are nearby for your enjoyment

So, have I tempted you yet? Hop on the train or in the car, Philly has much to offer!

TOP FIVE CONTEMPORARY ART DAY TRIPS FROM NYC

Spring is upon us and we’re all getting that itch to travel. And, with the airline industry still working out the post-pandemic travel rebound kinks, many people are looking to find the best trips one can take by train or by car. I am no different. With that, let me share a few tips for great day trips from NYC that contemporary art and design lovers can take with the help of Metro North and Long Island Rail Road. Maybe you can include them in your spring travel plans!

HEADING NORTH? DIA: BEACON AWAITS

Dia: Beacon is the place that art lovers gush about. And yet, many tourists and New York visitors have never heard about it. That is a shame. It is an excellent gallery and you can get there easily by hopping on a Metro North train at Grand Central station. 1.5 hours and many scenic pictures of the Hudson River from the train windows later, you’ve arrived at Beacon. From here, it’s a short walk to the former factory that has been transformed into one of the best contemporary galleries in the vicinity of New York.

So, what is Dia: Beacon and what kind of art can you find here? Dia: Beacon is part of the Dia Art Foundation that was founded in New York City in 1974 by Philippa de Menil, Heiner Friedrich, and Helen Winkler to help artists achieve visionary projects that might not otherwise be realized because of scale or scope. That’s also where the name comes from: a Greek word meaning “through”.

Dia: Beacon opened in the town of Beacon on the Hudson River in 2003. The former Nabisco box printing factory houses a collection of outstanding art from the 1960s to the present, along with special exhibitions. Contemporary art lovers (myself included) keep coming back for the permanent installations of Richard Serra’s giant steel forms, Michael Heizer’s negative sculptures, North, East, South, West and Negative Megalith, Dan Flavin’s light installations, or John Chamberlain's crushed metal car parts transformed into various sculptural pillars. The museum also has a great bookshop and a nice cafe on site. If that’s not enough, the city of Beacon has plenty additional cool artsy shops, restaurants and yes, more galleries just a few minutes away. Definitely worth adding to your NYC itinerary.

STORM KING ART CENTER

As the weather improves, you should make a date with the Storm King Art Center, a 500-acre outdoor museum in New York’s Hudson Valley. Hop on a Metro North train to Beacon and from there either take the seasonal shuttle or a taxi. The brilliant sculpture park that awaits you is worth the extra leg of the trip. Rarely do you find so much talent in one place. It’s a veritable who’s who of modern and contemporary sculpture: Louise Bourgeois, Lynda Benglis, Alexander Calder, Sol LeWitt, Roy Lichtenstein, Maya Lin, Henry Moore, Isamu Noguchi, Richard Serra, Kenneth Snelson, and countless others. And, if walking around on your own is not your thing, rent a bike and circle the art on two wheels.

THE DONALD M. KENDALL SCULPTURE GARDENS (PEPSICO)

This is another outdoor sculpture park that is just a short trip away from the city. The idea was hatched by Donald M. Kendall, former chairman of the board and CEO of Pepsico in 1965. It launched a collection of works by major twentieth-century artists. Do you like Alexander Calder? Auguste Rodin? No? How about Jean Dubuffet or Claes Oldenburg? And what about Joan Miro, Henry Moore, or (my personal favorite) Alberto Giacometti? You’ve come to the right place. The sculptures are sprinkled around a carefully landscaped park with ponds and fountains that surrounds the Pepsico headquarters. So yes, you’re technically at a corporate campus, but it’s a pretty cool one and there is tons to see.

The gardens are open to the public in the spring and summer and you can drive here or take the train to White Plains or Rye, and then take a taxi to the headquarters. The No. 12 bus from the White Plains railroad station also stops at the headquarters.

PHILIP JOHNSON GLASS HOUSE

This is another iconic location that you should not miss when visiting NYC. The Philip Johnson Glass House is in New Canaan, Connecticut and you can get there easily on Metro North. From the train station, walk to the visitor center at 199 Elm Street, New Canaan CT, 06840 and (assuming you have booked your ticket ahead of time - this is a must here) - a visitor shuttle will take you to and from the site. It feels a little bit like a school trip!

The Glass House was built in 1948–49. It was designed by architect Philip Johnson as his own residence and is considered to be one of the most important and influential modern architecture projects.

Hidden away from the street, the house is on a larger property. There is a small pond (which helps with a little trompe l’oeil effect for at least one of the structures on the property, The Pavilion on the Pond.) Besides the famous glass house, there are several other buildings that are worth visiting: the Brick House which was used as a guest house, Painting Gallery with a great selection of 20th-century American art including works by Frank Stella, Robert Rauschenberg, Julian Schnabel, Andy Warhol, and Cindy Sherman. Then there is the Sculpture Gallery, the Study, the Ghost House, the Kirstein Tower (named for Johnson's friend dance choreographer Lincoln Kirstein), and "Da Monsta" which houses more art, including works by one of my favorites, John Chamberlain.

OK, NOW LET’S HEAD EAST… TO LONGHOUSE RESERVE

In the summer, many visitors want to head out to the NYC’s riviera, aka the Hamptons. Those looking to go beyond the beautiful people watching and beach lounging (if you can still call it that with a disco ball setup right on the sand (I am looking at you Gurney’s!)) should put The Longhouse Reserve on their list.

So, where and what is Longhouse? Founded by Jack Lenor Larsen, the reserve includes a great art collection, gardens, sculpture and programs, all focus on reflecting world culture and fostering of a creative life. You can find it in East Hampton. And, there is plenty to see: a spectacular sculpture park with more than 60 contemporary sculptures, including pieces by Buckminster Fuller, Yoko Ono, Sol LeWitt and Willem de Kooning, glass installations by Chihuly, as well as works of many other artists.

Getting to LongHouse Reserve is not difficult either, even without a car: take the train or the Hampton Jitney to East Hampton and grab a taxi or Uber from there. A wonderful summer day trip.

So, have I tempted you enough? Or will you stick to the tried-and-true NYC landmarks only?

NEW YORK CITY: THE ART OF SILENCE

New York City. The city that never sleeps. The dream for many. My adopted home. A city that I love. And for the last few months, an epicenter of the COVID-19 pandemic. A pandemic that forced this bustling, colorful place to come to a screeching halt. Where noise was once omnipresent, only silence rules.

No-one can predict what kind of city will emerge on the other end but one thing is clear already: there is art in the silence. The forced pause emptied the streets, slowed down the pace and gave those who dared to venture out an entirely new, peaceful and captivating side of our city. Words feel superfluous, so come along for a visual walk with me instead. I am glad you can join me.

LINES, TRIANGLES AND SQUARES IN THE CANYONS OF MANHATTAN

When you no longer have to watch for the incoming traffic, moving out of the way of rushing pedestrians and weaving through the crowds to get to your destination quickly, you start paying attention. Noticing the details. Tilting your head upwards to admire the shapes, the lines, the angles that surround you at every step. And they captivate you.

SILENCED ICONS

The big pause has taken away most of the activities that I love and that used to fill up my days. Art galleries, concerts, theater performances are all out of reach for now. So, every now and then, one indulges in revisiting them at least from the outside…

ABOVE ALL, STAY HUMAN AND HOPEFUL

Throughout the early quarantine days, the city’s silence was punctuated by ambulance sirens (a heartbreaking sound) but also by the clapping and cheers for the medical and other essential workers, every night at 7pm. Hearing your invisible neighbors’ cheers and the occasional Frank Sinatra’s or Alicia Keys’ ode to the city that we all share is that other delightful surprise emerging out of the silence… a shared sense of human gratitude and hope. Stay human, my friends and we will come out of this stronger than before.