A COAL MILL PROVES A PERFECT MATCH FOR CONTEMPORARY ART
Venture a few minutes out of Prague to discover a great contemporary art gallery that you’re sure to enjoy.
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TOP FIVE CONTEMPORARY ART DAY TRIPS FROM NYC
Spring is upon us and we’re all getting that itch to travel. And, with the airline industry still working out the post-pandemic travel rebound kinks, many people are looking to find the best trips one can take by train or by car. I am no different. With that, let me share a few tips for great day trips from NYC that contemporary art and design lovers can take with the help of Metro North and Long Island Rail Road. Maybe you can include them in your spring travel plans!
HEADING NORTH? DIA: BEACON AWAITS
Dia: Beacon is the place that art lovers gush about. And yet, many tourists and New York visitors have never heard about it. That is a shame. It is an excellent gallery and you can get there easily by hopping on a Metro North train at Grand Central station. 1.5 hours and many scenic pictures of the Hudson River from the train windows later, you’ve arrived at Beacon. From here, it’s a short walk to the former factory that has been transformed into one of the best contemporary galleries in the vicinity of New York.
So, what is Dia: Beacon and what kind of art can you find here? Dia: Beacon is part of the Dia Art Foundation that was founded in New York City in 1974 by Philippa de Menil, Heiner Friedrich, and Helen Winkler to help artists achieve visionary projects that might not otherwise be realized because of scale or scope. That’s also where the name comes from: a Greek word meaning “through”.
Dia: Beacon opened in the town of Beacon on the Hudson River in 2003. The former Nabisco box printing factory houses a collection of outstanding art from the 1960s to the present, along with special exhibitions. Contemporary art lovers (myself included) keep coming back for the permanent installations of Richard Serra’s giant steel forms, Michael Heizer’s negative sculptures, North, East, South, West and Negative Megalith, Dan Flavin’s light installations, or John Chamberlain's crushed metal car parts transformed into various sculptural pillars. The museum also has a great bookshop and a nice cafe on site. If that’s not enough, the city of Beacon has plenty additional cool artsy shops, restaurants and yes, more galleries just a few minutes away. Definitely worth adding to your NYC itinerary.
STORM KING ART CENTER
As the weather improves, you should make a date with the Storm King Art Center, a 500-acre outdoor museum in New York’s Hudson Valley. Hop on a Metro North train to Beacon and from there either take the seasonal shuttle or a taxi. The brilliant sculpture park that awaits you is worth the extra leg of the trip. Rarely do you find so much talent in one place. It’s a veritable who’s who of modern and contemporary sculpture: Louise Bourgeois, Lynda Benglis, Alexander Calder, Sol LeWitt, Roy Lichtenstein, Maya Lin, Henry Moore, Isamu Noguchi, Richard Serra, Kenneth Snelson, and countless others. And, if walking around on your own is not your thing, rent a bike and circle the art on two wheels.
THE DONALD M. KENDALL SCULPTURE GARDENS (PEPSICO)
This is another outdoor sculpture park that is just a short trip away from the city. The idea was hatched by Donald M. Kendall, former chairman of the board and CEO of Pepsico in 1965. It launched a collection of works by major twentieth-century artists. Do you like Alexander Calder? Auguste Rodin? No? How about Jean Dubuffet or Claes Oldenburg? And what about Joan Miro, Henry Moore, or (my personal favorite) Alberto Giacometti? You’ve come to the right place. The sculptures are sprinkled around a carefully landscaped park with ponds and fountains that surrounds the Pepsico headquarters. So yes, you’re technically at a corporate campus, but it’s a pretty cool one and there is tons to see.
The gardens are open to the public in the spring and summer and you can drive here or take the train to White Plains or Rye, and then take a taxi to the headquarters. The No. 12 bus from the White Plains railroad station also stops at the headquarters.
PHILIP JOHNSON GLASS HOUSE
This is another iconic location that you should not miss when visiting NYC. The Philip Johnson Glass House is in New Canaan, Connecticut and you can get there easily on Metro North. From the train station, walk to the visitor center at 199 Elm Street, New Canaan CT, 06840 and (assuming you have booked your ticket ahead of time - this is a must here) - a visitor shuttle will take you to and from the site. It feels a little bit like a school trip!
The Glass House was built in 1948–49. It was designed by architect Philip Johnson as his own residence and is considered to be one of the most important and influential modern architecture projects.
Hidden away from the street, the house is on a larger property. There is a small pond (which helps with a little trompe l’oeil effect for at least one of the structures on the property, The Pavilion on the Pond.) Besides the famous glass house, there are several other buildings that are worth visiting: the Brick House which was used as a guest house, Painting Gallery with a great selection of 20th-century American art including works by Frank Stella, Robert Rauschenberg, Julian Schnabel, Andy Warhol, and Cindy Sherman. Then there is the Sculpture Gallery, the Study, the Ghost House, the Kirstein Tower (named for Johnson's friend dance choreographer Lincoln Kirstein), and "Da Monsta" which houses more art, including works by one of my favorites, John Chamberlain.
OK, NOW LET’S HEAD EAST… TO LONGHOUSE RESERVE
In the summer, many visitors want to head out to the NYC’s riviera, aka the Hamptons. Those looking to go beyond the beautiful people watching and beach lounging (if you can still call it that with a disco ball setup right on the sand (I am looking at you Gurney’s!)) should put The Longhouse Reserve on their list.
So, where and what is Longhouse? Founded by Jack Lenor Larsen, the reserve includes a great art collection, gardens, sculpture and programs, all focus on reflecting world culture and fostering of a creative life. You can find it in East Hampton. And, there is plenty to see: a spectacular sculpture park with more than 60 contemporary sculptures, including pieces by Buckminster Fuller, Yoko Ono, Sol LeWitt and Willem de Kooning, glass installations by Chihuly, as well as works of many other artists.
Getting to LongHouse Reserve is not difficult either, even without a car: take the train or the Hampton Jitney to East Hampton and grab a taxi or Uber from there. A wonderful summer day trip.
So, have I tempted you enough? Or will you stick to the tried-and-true NYC landmarks only?
THE BEST PLACES TO SEE CONTEMPORARY ART IN PRAGUE - PART 3
Prague, a contemporary art destination? Yes, yes, a thousand times yes. The city that most associate with stunning Gothic and Baroque architecture, Smetana and Dvorak’s music and beautiful women, is rapidly becoming an amazing destination for contemporary art lovers. I am lucky to be able to spend time in Prague every year and each time I visit, the city has added more galleries and venues. I love it. It makes my heart happy.
So, shall we look at some of galleries?
KVALITAR
Though technically not “new” (the architects-turned-founders opened the gallery in 2012) this gallery is, simply said, awesome. Representing up-and-coming Czech artists along with established names both local and international, the gallery was set up as a platform for art, design and architecture. Whether you like abstract art or latest sculpture, you’re sure to find it here. And they pay it forward, too, with educational programs for future collectors. I loved everything about this place. Located just off the busy Wenceslas Square, Kvalitar is a must on your Prague contemporary art tour.
SMETANAQ
Part of a larger art-focused concept that includes a design store showcasing the works of young Czech designers, an always-busy cafe that will satisfy your sweet-tooth cravings, SmetanaQ also includes a large contemporary art gallery upstairs. The sprawling space allows the gallery to showcase large scale artwork without making it feel crowded. And, if the art inside is not enough for you, take a peek out of the window. You will be hard pressed to find a more spectacular view of the Prague Castle.
KUNSTHALLE PRAHA
This newcomer opened its doors in February of 2022 and now provides a nice counterpoint to the history and antiques that await visitors at the Prague Castle just up the hill. Built in a converted electric plant, the Kunsthalle fittingly opened with an inaugural show focused on kinetic art on the main two floors and supplemented it with an exhibition of a range of contemporary art from a private collection. And, if you are feeling overwhelmed by the busy streets outside, take a minute and relax in the meditation room hidden in the tower on the top floor.
TRAFO GALLERY
This one is definitely off the beaten path, but that does not make it any less worthy of a visit. Originally conceived as “Trafacka” in 2006, the gallery is located in the former slaughterhouse at the Holesovice market complex. Born out of a collaboration between Czech contemporary artists and leading curators, the gallery now produces six shows per year, some tackling the issues of today’s world.
KAMPUS HYBERNSKA
Kampus Hybernska, or Hyb4, is another multi-purpose space. Hiding in plain sight in one of the non-descript streets leading to the Masarykovo train station, just a couple of minutes from the popular Obecni Dum, the campus comprises an outdoor cafe, an indoor reading room/cafe and, if you diligently search (or ask in the cafe, as we did), a surprisingly nice and large gallery reminiscent of the spaces in the much larger and popular Veletrzni Palac (see my post about that one, here). When we visited, the gallery was showing the works of Barbara Valaskova whose world full of blue color reminded me of one of my favorites, Yves Klein.
There you have it. A small sampling of the rich contemporary art scene that you can explore in Prague. But there is so much more. More galleries, more outdoors sculpture parks, terrific new art festivals and annual art celebrations. And, if you stick with me, I will tell you more about it in the next installment. For now, I leave you with another piece from the “Blau” show at Hybernska.
KUTNA HORA KOOL
If you read Czech guidebooks and are now expecting me to expound on the intricacies of the “bone church”, I am about to disappoint you. Yes, there is one. Yes, I have seen it. No, I am not going to write about it. I have a much better destination in mind.
GASK. WEIRD NAME. SUPER COOL ART CURATION
Lately, I have been really lucky, visiting cool museums in Norway, Belfast and Madrid. Galerie Stredoceskeho Kraje (GASK for short) in Kutna Hora deserves to be mentioned among them. I was impressed by the clever, interesting art curation and the entire gallery setting.
Approaching the gallery from afar, you’d never guess you’re headed for a contemporary art museum. The building that houses this modern and contemporary art gem is—an old jesuit college. A large one, too, making GASK one of the largest galleries in all of Bohemia, with over 3,000 square meters of exhibition space. With its location right next to the beautifully restored gothic church of Svata Barbora, the last thing you’d expect is a contemporary art temple.
Soon, however, the gallery starts revealing its true focus. As you enter the sculpture park, you are greeted by the giant “Bird of Paradise” by Lukas Rittstein. Part bird part repurposed old vehicle, the sculpture is both fun and intriguing. John Chamberlain’s work might pop into your head instantly. Walk on past the rust-colored flower (“Lilie”) by Martin Kocourek and the odd amoeba-like red sculpture (“Socha OF-1”) by Jan Kovarik and suddenly it’s crystal-clear. This place is very contemporary after all.
So, when later on, the internet informed me that the conceptual partner of GASK Open Air is the Louisiana Museum in Copenhagen (another favorite museum and a past subject of this blog) I nodded. But of course!
ULTIMA CULPA
Enter through the doors framed by two larger-than-life lenticular photographs and walk straight into the intriguing “Alley of the Saints” hallway. Right off-the-bat, GASK shows off its contemporary art creds with a whimsical collection of contemporary sculptures and an intriguingly named “Ultima Culpa” show by Kamila B. Richter. The Czech multimedia artist’s paintings - her response to the rapid technology boom—are inspired by faulty, pixelated old Sony Ericsson digital snapshots of classic masterpieces and modern life. Richter translates these flawed snaps into meticulously executed psychedelic large scale paintings. It shouldn’t, but somehow it works and it’s fascinating.
From here, head upstairs. The upper floors house a mix of temporary exhibitions, from a delightful 1930s-1950s textile design and print show that is somehow incredibly contemporary, to a mesmerizing set of Svatopluk Klimeš’s “burnt” images, made with ash and fire and questioning the temporary nature and the Phoenix-like rebirth of the civilization.
The rest of the space is reserved for the permanent collection. This is where the curators are at their best. Someone had the brilliant idea to think about human emotions, everything from joy to fear and loneliness, and organize the art by the emotion is represents. Sculptures among paintings, conceptual pieces next to more classic renderings, all connected through simple, modern graphical signage and clever quotes from old philosophers and modern rock musicians. There is a lot to see yet the art never feels cramped and overwhelming. And you’re intrigued, engaged, and delighted throughout. Both my friend and I absolutely loved it.
On your way out, make sure to stop at the cool and artsy cafe on the first floor and the superbly curated museum gift shop on the ground floor. They are both great.
GASK is located in Kutna Hora, about an hour’s drive from Prague. If you’re in the mood for a fun day trip, I highly recommend it.
The sculpture of Marie Therese in Prague
THE BEST PLACES TO SEE CONTEMPORARY ART IN PRAGUE PART 1
Prague. A city that brings to mind golden spires glinting in the setting sun, winding cobblestoned streets and the spectacular and imposing presence of the St. Vitus Cathedral looking over the city from its hilly perch. They are all here and they are just as magical as you imagined. But, the city is also packed with great contemporary art and it would be a shame not to see any while you are visiting. Let me show you where to go.
VELETRZNI PALAC
Designed by Czech architects Josef Fuchs and Oldřich Tyl and built in the 1920s, it was one of the largest functionalist buildings in the world at the time and was used to house major international trade fairs. The building almost met an untimely end in 1974 when it was severely damaged by a fire that took almost a week to extinguish. Fortunately, it was acquired by The Prague National Gallery that helped restore the building to its former glory and turned it into the permanent home of its modern and contemporary art collection with works ranging from the likes of Alfons Mucha, Claude Monet, Paul Cézanne and Paul Gauguin to Auguste Rodin, Pablo Picasso or Vincent Van Gogh. The gallery regularly shows great contemporary art exhibitions and art lovers have been able to see the works of artists as diverse as Annie Leibovitz, Gerhard Richter or Katharina Grosse. The current show is profiling the work of the surrealist artist Viktor Pivovarov. And architecture lovers will appreciate the stunning white functionalist interiors - those alone are worth a visit.
DOX CENTRE FOR CONTEMPORARY ARTS
DOX Centre for Contemporary Arts - Gulliver bllimp
Another simple and clean architectural gem born from a former factory conversion, the centre (named after a Greek word that means a point of view, or a persuasion) is a multifunctional space that focuses on contemporary art, architecture and design. Today, the building is instantly recognizable thanks to the 2016 addition of “Gulliver”, a blimp designed by architect Martin Rajniš. Gulliver serves as a lecture space and a lookout point for visitors. The centre puts on a number of rotating exhibitions every year, and has shown the works of Andy Warhol, Robert Mapplethorpe, Karel Nepraš, Czech comics, art brut and many others. The art at DOX always tells a story with a clear point of view - as you would expect given its name.
GALERIE PRAGOVKA
Those with an interest in conceptual art should head out to the emerging Pragovka Art District. The raw and industrial Pragovka Gallery (housed in a former and still to be renovated former truck factory) has an impressive and large space that focuses on emerging artists and artists-in-residence. For those who are familiar with New York, this is as close to Bushwick as you will get here in Prague. And it definitely has that cool, edgy vibe, complete with a hipster cafe on the premises.
GALERIE MESTSKA KNIHOVNA
A stone’s throw from the Old Town Square and hidden on the top floor of the neoclassicist building of Mestska Knihovna (The Municipal Library) the space itself is beautiful with simple clean interiors and large skylights. If you can, take the stairs to see the streamlined but striking Art Deco glasswork on the windows.
The art space is extensive and is part of the Prague Municipal Gallery complex. It presents short-term shows that focus on a range of contemporary and modern artists, both Czech and international. Currently, the gallery is showing the works of Jan Jedlička, a painter and photographer who has been creating works inspired by his Czech, Italian and Swiss surroundings. A good friend pointed me in this direction and I loved the paintings made from pigments collected by the artist on location and translated into abstract “portraits” of each place.
Intrigued? I am glad! Because there is more. Check back in for Part 2, coming soon.