WHAT TO SEE IF YOU'RE IN PHILADELPHIA FOR 24 HOURS AND LOVE ART

Philadelphia is well known for its important role in American history. But, what about if you love art and have a day to visit? Rest assured, there is plenty of great art to see. Let’s go!

PHILADELPHIA ART MUSEUM

The Philadelphia Museum of Art is well known for the great collection it houses. It definitely holds its own compared to its better known neighbors in New York City and Washington, DC. The 240,000 works inside cover 2,000 years of history, including pieces from the ancient world, medieval times, the Renaissance, the Impressionist movement, modern art all the way to the contemporary. From Cezanne and Van Gogh through Picasso, Cy Twombly, all the way to Sam Gilliam. One of my personal favorites are the works by Constantin Brancusi that I never forget to visit. The museum also has a wonderful collection of Asian art, including a little tea house and zen garden where you can just feel the stress sliding off your shoulders.

The architecture buffs will also appreciate the recent renovation led by Frank Gehry which added a new North entrance and a number of new galleries and public spaces.

Last, but not least, there is also a little treat for the Rocky film franchise lovers. Yes, these are the steps to run up and do your best Stallone impression. You can even take a selfie with the plaque that is embedded in the pavement at the top.

RODIN MUSEUM

Headed from the Philadelphia Art Museum back to Center City? Don’t forget to make a stop at another little gem, The Rodin Museum (good news: your art museum ticket will get you a free entrance here, too). Housed in a small pavilion surrounded by a beautiful garden and guarded by none other than The Thinker out front, the museum is home to many smaller versions of the artist’s famous works - from Balzac portraits, to his famed studies of human hands. More sculptures are sprinkled throughout the garden, including The Three Shades, and The Burghers of Calais. Stop by. All together, this is one of the largest collection of Rodin’s sculptures outside of Paris. In the spring and summer, this place is delightful.

BARNES FOUNDATION

If you like impressionism, post-impressionism and modern art, you must make this one of your stops. And, get ready to be overwhelmed. You will not see this many Renoirs side by side on a single wall anywhere else. The collection was built by Dr. Albert C. Barnes (1872-1951), who believed that art had the power to improve and change lives. Having enjoyed early career success, he started collecting art at age 40, and over three decades, amassed an impressive collection of works by the world's most important artists, including Renoir, Cézanne, Matisse, Modigliani (my personal favorite) and Picasso. Today, experts estimate the value of the collection at 20-30 billion dollars.

Originally housed in a special-purpose built mansion in Merion, Pennsylvania, the Barnes Foundation was moved to its current location in Center City Philadelphia in 2012. It was not without controversy. Detractors still point out that moving the collection from a neoclassical building in Merion to a postmodern raw stone and glass building designed by Billie Tsien undermined the vision Dr. Barnes laid out in his will. The curators defend themselves by saying that inside it is as if the dimensions of the old gallery were perfectly copied. It was also mandated: In order for the judge to approve the gallery move, the foundation promised to keep the dimensions of the original galleries and to replicate the quirky "ensembles" of paintings, furniture and metalwork the same way that Albert Barnes originally conceived and arranged them. Even the burlap on the walls looks the same. However, the architects found a way to incorporate natural light into almost every room. This accentuates the colors in images - a big improvement.

Be ready: When you walk in, you will be overwhelmed by the sheer amount of art. Where else in the world can you find five Renoir paintings sharing the same wall with several Picassos, Matisses, Modigliani and maybe two Degas paintings? All this next to African masks, Native American jewelry, Greek antiques... And that's just one wall in one room... and believe me, there are many rooms where you can admire a similar collection. You won't see anything like this anywhere in the world. Go see it. Even this thoroughly contemporary art lover approves.

FIRST FRIDAY

If you're in town during the first Friday of each month, don't miss a chance to explore Philly's incredible art scene, First Friday. This is when the galleries around the city throw their doors open and art lovers pour through many of the galleries in the Old City Arts District. The 40-plus galleries that are scattered between Front and Third, and Market and Vine Streets, show everything from contemporary works in various mediums to ceramic arts. It's a refreshing way to unwind after work or start the weekend out with something different when you're in town.

NEED TO PUT YOUR FEET UP? A COUPLE OF PLACES TO STAY

And, since you may need to put your feet up and relax somewhere for the night after all that art, here are a couple of my tips for places.

KIMPTON PALOMAR. Plopped right in Center City near Rittenhouse Square, the hotel is built in the former headquarters of the American Institute of Architects. And, to go with he theme, it has incorporated art and architecture into the experience, with contemporary art by Philadelphia artists throughout the property. The rest of the accommodations are pretty nice too, with Frette linens, L’Occitane amenities, marble vanities and recycled glass tiles in the bathrooms.

WM MULHERIN’S SONS. And now for a slightly different experience. If you like industrial chic, this small boutique hotel in Fishtown may be the right destination for you. There are only a few rooms but they feature exposed brick, arched windows and clawfoot tubs. And, if that’s not enough on its own, there are some bonus points: lots of great eateries and music venues are nearby for your enjoyment

So, have I tempted you yet? Hop on the train or in the car, Philly has much to offer!

TOP FIVE CONTEMPORARY ART DAY TRIPS FROM NYC

Spring is upon us and we’re all getting that itch to travel. And, with the airline industry still working out the post-pandemic travel rebound kinks, many people are looking to find the best trips one can take by train or by car. I am no different. With that, let me share a few tips for great day trips from NYC that contemporary art and design lovers can take with the help of Metro North and Long Island Rail Road. Maybe you can include them in your spring travel plans!

HEADING NORTH? DIA: BEACON AWAITS

Dia: Beacon is the place that art lovers gush about. And yet, many tourists and New York visitors have never heard about it. That is a shame. It is an excellent gallery and you can get there easily by hopping on a Metro North train at Grand Central station. 1.5 hours and many scenic pictures of the Hudson River from the train windows later, you’ve arrived at Beacon. From here, it’s a short walk to the former factory that has been transformed into one of the best contemporary galleries in the vicinity of New York.

So, what is Dia: Beacon and what kind of art can you find here? Dia: Beacon is part of the Dia Art Foundation that was founded in New York City in 1974 by Philippa de Menil, Heiner Friedrich, and Helen Winkler to help artists achieve visionary projects that might not otherwise be realized because of scale or scope. That’s also where the name comes from: a Greek word meaning “through”.

Dia: Beacon opened in the town of Beacon on the Hudson River in 2003. The former Nabisco box printing factory houses a collection of outstanding art from the 1960s to the present, along with special exhibitions. Contemporary art lovers (myself included) keep coming back for the permanent installations of Richard Serra’s giant steel forms, Michael Heizer’s negative sculptures, North, East, South, West and Negative Megalith, Dan Flavin’s light installations, or John Chamberlain's crushed metal car parts transformed into various sculptural pillars. The museum also has a great bookshop and a nice cafe on site. If that’s not enough, the city of Beacon has plenty additional cool artsy shops, restaurants and yes, more galleries just a few minutes away. Definitely worth adding to your NYC itinerary.

STORM KING ART CENTER

As the weather improves, you should make a date with the Storm King Art Center, a 500-acre outdoor museum in New York’s Hudson Valley. Hop on a Metro North train to Beacon and from there either take the seasonal shuttle or a taxi. The brilliant sculpture park that awaits you is worth the extra leg of the trip. Rarely do you find so much talent in one place. It’s a veritable who’s who of modern and contemporary sculpture: Louise Bourgeois, Lynda Benglis, Alexander Calder, Sol LeWitt, Roy Lichtenstein, Maya Lin, Henry Moore, Isamu Noguchi, Richard Serra, Kenneth Snelson, and countless others. And, if walking around on your own is not your thing, rent a bike and circle the art on two wheels.

THE DONALD M. KENDALL SCULPTURE GARDENS (PEPSICO)

This is another outdoor sculpture park that is just a short trip away from the city. The idea was hatched by Donald M. Kendall, former chairman of the board and CEO of Pepsico in 1965. It launched a collection of works by major twentieth-century artists. Do you like Alexander Calder? Auguste Rodin? No? How about Jean Dubuffet or Claes Oldenburg? And what about Joan Miro, Henry Moore, or (my personal favorite) Alberto Giacometti? You’ve come to the right place. The sculptures are sprinkled around a carefully landscaped park with ponds and fountains that surrounds the Pepsico headquarters. So yes, you’re technically at a corporate campus, but it’s a pretty cool one and there is tons to see.

The gardens are open to the public in the spring and summer and you can drive here or take the train to White Plains or Rye, and then take a taxi to the headquarters. The No. 12 bus from the White Plains railroad station also stops at the headquarters.

PHILIP JOHNSON GLASS HOUSE

This is another iconic location that you should not miss when visiting NYC. The Philip Johnson Glass House is in New Canaan, Connecticut and you can get there easily on Metro North. From the train station, walk to the visitor center at 199 Elm Street, New Canaan CT, 06840 and (assuming you have booked your ticket ahead of time - this is a must here) - a visitor shuttle will take you to and from the site. It feels a little bit like a school trip!

The Glass House was built in 1948–49. It was designed by architect Philip Johnson as his own residence and is considered to be one of the most important and influential modern architecture projects.

Hidden away from the street, the house is on a larger property. There is a small pond (which helps with a little trompe l’oeil effect for at least one of the structures on the property, The Pavilion on the Pond.) Besides the famous glass house, there are several other buildings that are worth visiting: the Brick House which was used as a guest house, Painting Gallery with a great selection of 20th-century American art including works by Frank Stella, Robert Rauschenberg, Julian Schnabel, Andy Warhol, and Cindy Sherman. Then there is the Sculpture Gallery, the Study, the Ghost House, the Kirstein Tower (named for Johnson's friend dance choreographer Lincoln Kirstein), and "Da Monsta" which houses more art, including works by one of my favorites, John Chamberlain.

OK, NOW LET’S HEAD EAST… TO LONGHOUSE RESERVE

In the summer, many visitors want to head out to the NYC’s riviera, aka the Hamptons. Those looking to go beyond the beautiful people watching and beach lounging (if you can still call it that with a disco ball setup right on the sand (I am looking at you Gurney’s!)) should put The Longhouse Reserve on their list.

So, where and what is Longhouse? Founded by Jack Lenor Larsen, the reserve includes a great art collection, gardens, sculpture and programs, all focus on reflecting world culture and fostering of a creative life. You can find it in East Hampton. And, there is plenty to see: a spectacular sculpture park with more than 60 contemporary sculptures, including pieces by Buckminster Fuller, Yoko Ono, Sol LeWitt and Willem de Kooning, glass installations by Chihuly, as well as works of many other artists.

Getting to LongHouse Reserve is not difficult either, even without a car: take the train or the Hampton Jitney to East Hampton and grab a taxi or Uber from there. A wonderful summer day trip.

So, have I tempted you enough? Or will you stick to the tried-and-true NYC landmarks only?

LIGHTS, CAMERA, ACTION!

When I first saw Stephane’s work in a gallery in SoHo many years ago, I was instantly drawn to his striking black and white portraits. Yes, they were celebrity portraits, but there was something about them that was different. These were not your typical staged celeb photos. No, they felt much more like candids, catching the well known faces in spontaneous moments, often mid-laugh or pondering some philosophical thought. They felt much more unique. And you already know the depth of my love for black and white photography… no wonder I was hooked! So, I explored. Met the person behind the lens. Bought a couple of the photographs. And made a new friend in the process. And today, I am lucky to interview Stephane Kossmann for this blog. I hope you enjoy reading.

Stephane, welcome to Loves Art Will Travel. What shaped your unique portraiture style?

I want to say it's been a long process. But it’s actually more simple than that. I realized early on that I had a gift for making the person that I photograph trust me. I make them feel comfortable. That changes the equation.

What do you look for to find that perfect shot, that moment that you want to capture?

For the red carpet pictures, I try to find views that are not posed, those candid moments that give the viewer a different, more human perspective. I find those much more interesting than your average glamour shots.

The vast majority of your portrait work is in black and white photography. Why this preference? And are there any instances where you would reach for color?

It actually goes back to the beginning of my Cannes career. I started covering Cannes for a magazine that only used black and white pictures, which was very different from the work of press photographers. There is a sense of timelessness in a black and white print.

[Author’s note: Stephane uses color for his landscape shots - and quite skillfully. His portraits, however, deliver their impact through his keen focus on black and white prints]

You rose to fame thanks to your annual coverage of the red carpet at the Cannes Film Festival. What makes Cannes different and unique from other film festivals? How does photographing it influence your work?

Well, Cannes is the most famous film festival in the world. In fact, and I bet you didn’t know this, it is the second most press-covered event in the world, right after the Olympics. For artists, Cannes is the pinnacle of one’s career, a fitting symbol of the dedication they give to their art. If you are aware of this, if you pay attention and have a keen eye, there is a lot of emotion and feeling there for you to capture.

Over the years, you have shot thousands of famous faces. Are there any celebrities that you like to photograph, that you come back to, time and time again? What is their appeal for you?

I like taking pictures of Brad Pitt. The fans are always crazy about him... And, it seems that he is a nice guy. I also have a lot of respect for Meryl Streep, what she stands for. And she is also very discreet. A true icon.

On a completely different occasion, I had the privilege of spending 20 minutes alone with John Lewis. This was, quite possibly, the best moment of my photographic life. His humility. The sweetness of his voice. I will remember this until I die.

We’ve been friends for a while and I know that you also tackle other photographic projects, be it New York landscapes, or various photography festivals and symposia. Tell me a bit more about these projects. What’s on your calendar this year?

You’re right. I created three photography festivals, one in France, one in Morocco, and one in Selma, Alabama. It's nice to bring communities together. This spring, I have a show coming up in Manhattan, at the Sofitel. Come say hi!

Outside of photography, I am also working on a documentary movie about segregation and am currently looking for a producer.

As a photographer, you split your time between France and New York. How does the world of photography differ between these two locations? What differences are there in clients’ tastes and expectations?

The world of photography has shifted to more and more images. Everyone is a photographer now with their phone. So, clients now expect you to have your own signature.

You’ve had a rich career. Is there any project that is on your “bucket list”? Something that you would still love to cover?

I want to make movies.

In closing, I try to learn a little bit more about the people I interview. Are you open to answering a few rapid-fire questions for me?

Morning coffee or tea? Coffee. Lots and lots of coffee.

Mountains or sea? Sea, definitely.

Dog or cat? Dog

Right now I love talking to… Peter Knapp

For inspiration I go to… Museums

A well spent weekend is… resting and reading

My next trip will be… I would love to go to Iceland

Thank you, Stephane. I can’t wait to see more of your work and grab that coffee with you and your camera in New York soon.

For those of you who want to learn more about Stephane and his work, you can either visit his upcoming show in New York (referenced in this blog) or follow him on instagram or find him on his website.