THE CITY OF LIGHT AND ITS CONTEMPORARY ART SCENE
A must-read for the contemporary art enthusiast visiting Paris. Top galleries to put on your Parisian itinerary.
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EXPLORING ROME AND ITS CONTEMPORARY ART
The Eternal City. Yes. Rome is known for its history, its spectacular monuments, and enduring artworks by art geniuses of the past. Raphael, Caravaggio, Bernini, Borromini, and yes, the unforgettable Michelangelo whose work on Pope Julius II’s commission gave us the spectacular Sistine Chapel. If you love art history, Rome is the destination of your dreams.
For the contemporary art lovers among us, all it takes is a tiny extra bit of preparation. But you too can fall in love with this beautiful place. So, let’s explore together, shall we?
LA GALLERIA NAZIONALE D’ARTE MODERNA E CONTEMPORANEA
I dare you not to fall in love with this gallery. An unassuming neoclassical building just a few steps away from the fab Villa Borghese park, the gallery had my heart from the moment I stepped in. Generously sized rooms that let the art breathe, large skylights that bring in lots of natural light, and a small courtyard with greenery to blend the indoors and outdoors in a way that just works. But that was only the beginning.
What I really loved is the way the art is curated here. A few well chosen antique pieces mixed in with modern and contemporary art, all beautifully and seamlessly blended together. Art placed in ways that show clarity of a curator’s purpose, with each piece standing out individually and ready for your attention, but also working together with others as part of the bigger idea of the entire room. Careful placement, playing with the location of windows, doorways and stairs to create varied vistas that draw your eye in. It is so well done and it is sure to bring a smile to your face.
Finally, don’t forget the special exhibitions. They are done with humor, creativity and imagination. Make this the one gallery that is a “must” on your list.
MAXXI
If your heart pines after conceptual art, this is the place for you. MAXXI (short for The National Museum of XXI Century Arts) has set an ambitious (and a little ambiguous) goal of becoming the first Italian national institution devoted to contemporary creativity. This is reflected in the programming and special projects and the workshops that the museum wants to focus on going forward.
For me, the highlight of the visit was the building itself. Designed by Zaha Hadid, the concrete structure features her signature bold forms and undulating shapes outside and twisting staircases on the inside. Connecting multiple structures into one cohesive self, MAXXI stands out (while also blending in) in the more typical Flaminio neighborhood that surrounds it.
MACRO
MACRO stands for Museum of Contemporary Art Rome, so you know you are in the right place. Built in a former Peroni brewery and warehouse, it was inaugurated in 1999 as the Municipal Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art of Rome. It was subsequently redesigned to better suit the exhibition and performance space needs and reopened to the public in 2010. Make sure you check out the events and exhibitions that are on and don’t forget that the museum only opens in the afternoons.
MUCCIACACCIA GALLERY
This was a random find! I passed by the gallery on my way home one evening and liked this small space enough to come back the next day. Three connected rooms provide the perfect white backdrop for the very colorful art by Jim Lambie that was on display during my visit. The gallery is right in the center of Rome so it is an easy addition to your itinerary.
GALLERIA LORCAN O’NEILL
Another good stop on your contemporary art tour is Lorcan O’Neill. The Irish-born gallery has been bringing avant-garde and contemporary artists such as Gary Hume, Anselm Kiefer, Tracey Emin and others to the eternal city and is worth a stop as well.
SEE ART, STAY WITH ART
My focus here is mostly on finding contemporary art while you travel. But every now and then I will share hotels, restaurants or design shops that make the perfect destination for my fellow minimalist design and contemporary art lovers. This time, it is these two hotels:
Crossing Condotti
Hidden on a side street that’s but a stone’s throw from the Spanish Steps and the glam of Via Condotti, this tiny gem of a hotel makes you happy from the moment you step through its dark green doors. Each of its handful of rooms showcases carefully picked iconic design furniture and a mix of classic and contemporary art from artists such as Beatrice Spadea, Benedetta Mori Ubaldini, or Sergio Vanni. Design and art come together to greet you as you enter and to create an amazing backdrop for your entire stay. To top it off, the manager is great. A kind architecture buff, helpful and ready to make your stay a wonderful one.
Dei Barbieri hotel
Do you want to stay in a palazzo that’s both grand and also utterly modern? Dei Barbieri fits the bill perfectly. Tucked away on a side street, the hotel is close to one of the gems of the millenia-old architecture: The Pantheon. For the aperitivo-loving crowd, it’s also not that far from Campo de’Fiori. The building is an impressive renovation of a 17th-century building, mixing and beautifully preserved dramatic period architecture with cutting-edge contemporary design.
With so much to see, a true Roman holiday always makes me smile. Arrivederci Roma. Baci.
THE BEST PLACES TO SEE CONTEMPORARY ART IN PRAGUE PART 2
Erika Bornova sculpture
When I started writing about contemporary art in Prague, I quickly realized that I had more material than would fit into a single blog. So, contemporary art lovers, here is Part 2 of this mini series. Prague has so much to offer and I hope you can enjoy it as much as I did.
MUZEUM KAMPA
I have written about the Kampa museum before. It came into being in 2003 through the efforts of a Frantisek Kupka collector Meda Mládek. Today, the museum houses the Meda and Jan Mládek private art collection on the upper floors. The lower floors of the Sovovy Mlyny location on the Vltava river regularly host various modern and contemporary art exhibitions, including the works of a beloved Czech illustrator Kamil Lhotak (who just happened to live in the same building where I now own a place), a sublime sculptor and painter Karel Malich, Toyen (yes, the artist I profiled a few weeks ago), Czech street artist Pasta Oner, Alfons Mucha, Helmut Newton, Pablo Picasso, Eduard Munch, Oskar Kokoschka, Andy Warhol and many others. Even the outside of the museum is built to catch your eye: surrounded by David Cerny’s oversized babies on the Kampa Island, a giant chair right in the river and a darling lineup of yellow penguins walking right up to the museum cafe. You will know when you have arrived. Currently, the museum is showing the work of Jiri Salomoun who is known to Czech kids and adults alike from his Maxipes Fik children story illustrations.
KASARNA KARLIN - KARLIN STUDIOS GALLERY
Kasarna Karlin (the former army barracks) opened in 2017 with the aim of creating a cultural crossroads for people of different ages and walks of life. This is a multifunctional space (a coffee shop, a movie theater, a sand pit, a campfire pit, a bar, a club) rather than strictly an art gallery, though there is an art gallery on the premises as well. In the summer, it is a great place to grab a drink and explore the temporary art installation in the barracks large quadrangle. The onsite gallery, Karlin Studios, showcases the works of artists from the onsite artist studios in an effort to promote up and coming artists.
LEICA GALLERY PRAGUE
My friends know that although I love contemporary art of all kinds, I have a soft spot for photography. So, it will be no surprise to anyone that this list will also include a few galleries that focus on this medium. And Leica is an obvious choice here. The current show “Tramps” highlights the explorations of wanderlust by Czech photographer Libor Fojtik and, in the cafe, you can admire the floral and botanical photography work of Anne Mason-Hoerter that explores the possibilities of data layers, image collages and configurations. I really enjoyed perusing her work as well.
GALERIE FOTOGRAFIC
Another hidden gem, Galerie Fotografic is worth leaving the well worn tourist trail and exploring the side streets near Betlemska kaple. The tiny room in Stribrna street with a cute backyard has been around for many years. It prides itself on showing interesting work from European photographers, focusing on contemporary photography and multimedia explorations that overlap with other artistic fields. The gallery encourages artists to present their works in unexpected installations and regularly holds open calls inviting all innovative projects in the fields of photography, video art, interactive media, as well as painting or drawing. The gallery is also a cultural space for the neighhborhood, hosting discussions and with artists, screening films and participating in community projects such as Betlemska kulturni noc, Fotograf Festival, Noc literatury or Prague Quadrennial.
PRAGUE MUNICIPAL GALLERY
Technically, Prague Municipal Gallery can show art of all kinds, so it’s always good to check out what’s on at the time you plan your visit. Currently, one of the locations is showing the work of another contemporary Czech illustrator, Erika Bornova and so it deserves a spot on this list. Hailing from a famed artist family (her father is none other than Adolf Born, a multitalented Czech painter, illustrator, caricaturist and costume designer) Erika’s work ranges from sculpture to paintings and draws inspiration from the lives of historical figures and the mysteries of flora and fauna. Interestingly, she also showcases a series of self-portraits painted during a period when the artist partially lost her sight. As the curator of the current show mentions, Bornová’s work shows how subtle the line is between “normality” and madness, between genius and infatuation, as well as between devoted love and destructive obsession - all themes quite fitting for the world we live in today.
GALERIE ZDENEK SKLENAR
I first discovered this tiny gallery in its previous location tucked away on a side street in the Old Town. The space has since moved but Zdenek Sklenar still shows some of the best works of well known Czech contemporary artists, and it’s definitely worth a stop for any serious art lover.
The sculpture of Marie Therese in Prague
THE BEST PLACES TO SEE CONTEMPORARY ART IN PRAGUE PART 1
Prague. A city that brings to mind golden spires glinting in the setting sun, winding cobblestoned streets and the spectacular and imposing presence of the St. Vitus Cathedral looking over the city from its hilly perch. They are all here and they are just as magical as you imagined. But, the city is also packed with great contemporary art and it would be a shame not to see any while you are visiting. Let me show you where to go.
VELETRZNI PALAC
Designed by Czech architects Josef Fuchs and Oldřich Tyl and built in the 1920s, it was one of the largest functionalist buildings in the world at the time and was used to house major international trade fairs. The building almost met an untimely end in 1974 when it was severely damaged by a fire that took almost a week to extinguish. Fortunately, it was acquired by The Prague National Gallery that helped restore the building to its former glory and turned it into the permanent home of its modern and contemporary art collection with works ranging from the likes of Alfons Mucha, Claude Monet, Paul Cézanne and Paul Gauguin to Auguste Rodin, Pablo Picasso or Vincent Van Gogh. The gallery regularly shows great contemporary art exhibitions and art lovers have been able to see the works of artists as diverse as Annie Leibovitz, Gerhard Richter or Katharina Grosse. The current show is profiling the work of the surrealist artist Viktor Pivovarov. And architecture lovers will appreciate the stunning white functionalist interiors - those alone are worth a visit.
DOX CENTRE FOR CONTEMPORARY ARTS
DOX Centre for Contemporary Arts - Gulliver bllimp
Another simple and clean architectural gem born from a former factory conversion, the centre (named after a Greek word that means a point of view, or a persuasion) is a multifunctional space that focuses on contemporary art, architecture and design. Today, the building is instantly recognizable thanks to the 2016 addition of “Gulliver”, a blimp designed by architect Martin Rajniš. Gulliver serves as a lecture space and a lookout point for visitors. The centre puts on a number of rotating exhibitions every year, and has shown the works of Andy Warhol, Robert Mapplethorpe, Karel Nepraš, Czech comics, art brut and many others. The art at DOX always tells a story with a clear point of view - as you would expect given its name.
GALERIE PRAGOVKA
Those with an interest in conceptual art should head out to the emerging Pragovka Art District. The raw and industrial Pragovka Gallery (housed in a former and still to be renovated former truck factory) has an impressive and large space that focuses on emerging artists and artists-in-residence. For those who are familiar with New York, this is as close to Bushwick as you will get here in Prague. And it definitely has that cool, edgy vibe, complete with a hipster cafe on the premises.
GALERIE MESTSKA KNIHOVNA
A stone’s throw from the Old Town Square and hidden on the top floor of the neoclassicist building of Mestska Knihovna (The Municipal Library) the space itself is beautiful with simple clean interiors and large skylights. If you can, take the stairs to see the streamlined but striking Art Deco glasswork on the windows.
The art space is extensive and is part of the Prague Municipal Gallery complex. It presents short-term shows that focus on a range of contemporary and modern artists, both Czech and international. Currently, the gallery is showing the works of Jan Jedlička, a painter and photographer who has been creating works inspired by his Czech, Italian and Swiss surroundings. A good friend pointed me in this direction and I loved the paintings made from pigments collected by the artist on location and translated into abstract “portraits” of each place.
Intrigued? I am glad! Because there is more. Check back in for Part 2, coming soon.
THE DREAMY REBELLIOUS WORLD OF TOYEN
Sometimes you get lucky. A good friend told me about this now sold out “Toyen: The Dreaming Rebel” show in Prague a few weeks ago. But work intervened and I never got around to booking my ticket So it was a lucky coincidence that another friend happened to have a spare ticket and was able to connect with me 15 minutes before the timed entry. Sometimes you get rewarded for saying “yes” quickly. I am certainly glad I did.
SO, WHO IS TOYEN?
Even as a Czech art enthusiast, I had a very incomplete picture of the artist’s work, mostly limited to a few of her surrealist, mysterious paintings. As someone who gravitates towards contemporary art and photography, I wasn’t sure this show would be something I would like. I stand corrected.
Born Marie Čermínová in Prague in 1902, the artist changed her name to a more neutral pseudonym, Toyen, that she thought would make it easier to show her work and gain respect on the more male-dominated art scene of 1922. The rumor has it that the name was coined by none other than Jaroslav Seifert, the Czech Nobel Prize for Literature laureate.
After leaving home at the young age of 16 and supporting herself by working at a soap factory, Toyen went on to study decorative arts at the Applied Arts University and in her early 20s she met painter and photographer Jindřich Štyrský who became a life-long friend and collaborator. Together, they joined the Czech avant garde art society Devětsil, created their own art style, “artificialism” that they believed offered new ideas differentiated from abstraction and surrealism, and spent extended time in France where they befriended surrealists Andre Breton and Paul Eluard. Sidelined by World War II when surrealism art fell out of favor (and hiding one of her Jewish painter colleagues in her studio for three years), Toyen made a living by working on magazine and book illustrations and collages, many of which feel surprisingly modern and completely unlike her other work. She re-emerged after the war but after a few shows moved permanently to Paris where she continued her creative work in collaboration with other French surrealists until her death in 1980. She is considered to be one of the most prominent Czech avant garde artists of the 20th century.
SURREALIST? YES. BUT ALSO INCREDIBLY VERSATILE
What surprised me walking through the show was the creative evolution of the artist who was able to deftly pivot from one style to another and always make it her own. From early geometric and pastel-colored works to sharp and precise illustrations, then on to saturated palettes and organic sea-inspired shapes and on again to stark and stripped-down black and white wartime drawings and futuristic collages. it’s all there and Toyen emerges as a multi-talented artist who can surprise you and teach you a thing or two.
The show is running for a few more weeks at the Valdstejnska jizdarna in Prague. It is currently sold out but if you happen to find a ticket, go. You will enjoy it. And for those who miss it in Prague, you will have a second chance in Paris and then Berlin later this year.
