TIMELESS TIME OF VINCENT PETERS
Beautiful Vince Peters photography show at Palazzo Bonaparte in Rome
Read MoreBeautiful Vince Peters photography show at Palazzo Bonaparte in Rome
Read MoreAfter years of pandemic-induced shutdown, travel is back in 2022. And so are music festivals, gatherings and yes, the major art shows. The Venice Biennale, naturally, is among them. And let’s be honest. If you are going to dip your toe back in the art show pool, is there a better city than Venice? I think not!
Going to Venice, especially when one has limited amount of time, requires making choices. Do you brave the crowds at the Arsenale and Giardini and see lots of art but little Venice proper? Or, do you explore the many installations that are sprinkled throughout the city and play tourist in-between? I chose the latter.
First stop: Anish Kapoor. His work is shown at two Venetian venues: The Gallerie dell’Accademia di Venezia in Dorsoduro and at the historic Palazzo Manfrin in Cannaregio. An in-built sight-seeing! Starting in the Dorsoduro gallery courtyard, you’re greeted by a familiar sight, one of Kapoor’s large scale mirrors. Yes, you have come to the right place. Enter the building, however, and a darker Kapoor emerges. It’s here where you encounter the never-before seen Vantablack sculptures. Vantablack is a ground-breaking nano-technology material that absorbs more than 99.8% of visible light, allowing Kapoor to create forms that both appear and disappear before your eyes. According to the gallery, Kapoor’s work probes the idea of darkness as a physical and psychic reality. In life outside the gallery walls, the use of Vantablack also poses some ethical questions about whether a single artist should be the only one with access to this new material. Many disagree.
In addition to the black forms, there are other earlier pigment works, many relying on blood red, rather evocative presentation. Walking through, I definitely felt uneasy. Definitely not art for the squeamish.
From Dorsoduro, weave your way through the winding canals of Venice (if you are lucky, you might pass a little Banksy on the way) to the charmingly delapidated Palazzo Manfrin. This venue impresses right at the entrance. Walk in and you are met with the monumental new work “Mount Moriah at the Gate of the Ghetto” protruding from the ceiling. From there, move on to other rooms to explore a triptych of seething silicone paintings, “Internal Objects in Three Parts”, as well as other influential works from Kapoor’s career.
Move through the rooms to find more iconic mirror works that flip and distort the viewer’s expectations of what is before us, ponder the artist’s geometrical works carved from natural alabaster and admire the blue pigment of Kapoor’s early void hemispheres that bring to mind another artist - Yves Klein and his own blue.
In the palazzo’s courtyard, stop by Kapoor’s mechanized work. The spinning red waters of “Turning Water Into Mirror, Blood Into Sky” have a distinctly mesmerizing quality.
OK. I will let you in on my secret. This show made it on the shortlist first and foremost because I hadn’t seen Tadao Ando’s renovated Punta Della Dogana gallery during my last visit and I wasn’t going to miss it this time. I am glad I saw it. I love the simple gallery design that creates spaces that breathe and door and window treatments that let in intriguing glimpses of the city and the passersby.
The show at Punta della Dogana highlights both older works and some recent ones and focuses on video installations that Nauman has developed over the last years related to a single channel video from 1968, “Walk with Contrapposto”, in which we see the artist walk in a narrow wooden corridor built inside his studio while trying to maintain the contrapposto pose. If I am honest, however, I liked the Marlene Dumas show at Palazzo Grassi a bit better.
Palazzo Grassi is showing a major monographic exhibition dedicated to Marlene Dumas. The artist’s paintings and drawings, some of them quite in-your-face, were created between 1984 and today. They provoke a range of emotions, from fear and suffering to ecstasy. A few will make you uncomfortable, forcing you to question the world and human relationships around us. But overall, you will be glad you saw the show.
Don’t get me wrong. I love both artists and their work. And I was truly looking forward to seeing the show. Unfortunately, in this case, the location did not live up to expectations. Tucked away under the archways surrounding Piazza San Marco, the gallery came with the extra excitement produced by a geyser of water streaming out of the store next door as the piazza was partially covered by water, forcing us to abandon plans to raise a glass at the Florian. The inside of the former Olivetti showroom where the show was held was fortunately dry, but the busy (if interesting) interior did not let the art breathe. Great works, from small sketches and sculptures by Gormley to a few iconic Fontana pieces, were lost in the busy space. I still liked the works, but wished that the curators arranged things differently.
Those who know me have come to expect seeing some street art in my posts. And, this being Italy, I was delighted to notice a former Florentine discovery in Venice. Blub (or “Art knows how to swim”) has gained notoriety by creating copies of famous paintings (think Mona Lisa) with the characters “submerged” under water and wearing diving goggles. I loved them when I first saw them a few years back and coming across a couple pieces in Venice was no different. In a way, the “swimming” art fits here even better!
We’ve seen several other shows, including Surrealism and Magic: Enchanted Modernity at the Peggy Guggenheim museum and the three-artist show: Danh Vo, Isamu Noguchi, and Park Seo-Bo at Fondazione Querini Stampalia, but perhaps I will cover those later. Now, I am curious about what your favorite shows were! Tell me in the comments. I would love to hear from you.
The Eternal City. Yes. Rome is known for its history, its spectacular monuments, and enduring artworks by art geniuses of the past. Raphael, Caravaggio, Bernini, Borromini, and yes, the unforgettable Michelangelo whose work on Pope Julius II’s commission gave us the spectacular Sistine Chapel. If you love art history, Rome is the destination of your dreams.
For the contemporary art lovers among us, all it takes is a tiny extra bit of preparation. But you too can fall in love with this beautiful place. So, let’s explore together, shall we?
I dare you not to fall in love with this gallery. An unassuming neoclassical building just a few steps away from the fab Villa Borghese park, the gallery had my heart from the moment I stepped in. Generously sized rooms that let the art breathe, large skylights that bring in lots of natural light, and a small courtyard with greenery to blend the indoors and outdoors in a way that just works. But that was only the beginning.
What I really loved is the way the art is curated here. A few well chosen antique pieces mixed in with modern and contemporary art, all beautifully and seamlessly blended together. Art placed in ways that show clarity of a curator’s purpose, with each piece standing out individually and ready for your attention, but also working together with others as part of the bigger idea of the entire room. Careful placement, playing with the location of windows, doorways and stairs to create varied vistas that draw your eye in. It is so well done and it is sure to bring a smile to your face.
Finally, don’t forget the special exhibitions. They are done with humor, creativity and imagination. Make this the one gallery that is a “must” on your list.
If your heart pines after conceptual art, this is the place for you. MAXXI (short for The National Museum of XXI Century Arts) has set an ambitious (and a little ambiguous) goal of becoming the first Italian national institution devoted to contemporary creativity. This is reflected in the programming and special projects and the workshops that the museum wants to focus on going forward.
For me, the highlight of the visit was the building itself. Designed by Zaha Hadid, the concrete structure features her signature bold forms and undulating shapes outside and twisting staircases on the inside. Connecting multiple structures into one cohesive self, MAXXI stands out (while also blending in) in the more typical Flaminio neighborhood that surrounds it.
MACRO stands for Museum of Contemporary Art Rome, so you know you are in the right place. Built in a former Peroni brewery and warehouse, it was inaugurated in 1999 as the Municipal Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art of Rome. It was subsequently redesigned to better suit the exhibition and performance space needs and reopened to the public in 2010. Make sure you check out the events and exhibitions that are on and don’t forget that the museum only opens in the afternoons.
This was a random find! I passed by the gallery on my way home one evening and liked this small space enough to come back the next day. Three connected rooms provide the perfect white backdrop for the very colorful art by Jim Lambie that was on display during my visit. The gallery is right in the center of Rome so it is an easy addition to your itinerary.
Another good stop on your contemporary art tour is Lorcan O’Neill. The Irish-born gallery has been bringing avant-garde and contemporary artists such as Gary Hume, Anselm Kiefer, Tracey Emin and others to the eternal city and is worth a stop as well.
My focus here is mostly on finding contemporary art while you travel. But every now and then I will share hotels, restaurants or design shops that make the perfect destination for my fellow minimalist design and contemporary art lovers. This time, it is these two hotels:
Crossing Condotti
Hidden on a side street that’s but a stone’s throw from the Spanish Steps and the glam of Via Condotti, this tiny gem of a hotel makes you happy from the moment you step through its dark green doors. Each of its handful of rooms showcases carefully picked iconic design furniture and a mix of classic and contemporary art from artists such as Beatrice Spadea, Benedetta Mori Ubaldini, or Sergio Vanni. Design and art come together to greet you as you enter and to create an amazing backdrop for your entire stay. To top it off, the manager is great. A kind architecture buff, helpful and ready to make your stay a wonderful one.
Dei Barbieri hotel
Do you want to stay in a palazzo that’s both grand and also utterly modern? Dei Barbieri fits the bill perfectly. Tucked away on a side street, the hotel is close to one of the gems of the millenia-old architecture: The Pantheon. For the aperitivo-loving crowd, it’s also not that far from Campo de’Fiori. The building is an impressive renovation of a 17th-century building, mixing and beautifully preserved dramatic period architecture with cutting-edge contemporary design.
With so much to see, a true Roman holiday always makes me smile. Arrivederci Roma. Baci.
Milan has amazing contemporary art venues that you should add to your itinerary
Read More